Day 1: Route 66: Barstow to Ludlow
Today I pedal 56 miles from Barstow to Ludlow on old Route 66 to position myself for a bit of exploration in the area of Broadwell Dry Lake and the Kelso Dunes Wilderness. A strong tailwind today, and pleasant temperatures in the 60s, after the morning rain ended, which I managed to avoid.
I haven't visited this stretch of old Route 66 before, so I'm looking forward to it. Ludlow was once a budding small town and boasts a few crumbling old buildings to prove it, but today it is little more than a freeway truck stop.
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Date: November 21, 2010, 09h12
Size: 47 items
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Yesterday, I took the Amtrak San Joaquin train with my bicycle down California's Central Valley
Many Amtrak trains do not accept unboxed bicycles, but this one does, and it even has a nice rack. This makes a bicycle trip so convenient.
Date: November 20, 2010, 10h54
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The Amtrak bus deposited me yesterday at Barstow Station, just before sunset
After a relaxing day of train and bus travel, I reassemble the 10-ton bike and ride a couple of miles up Barstow's main street (old Route 66) to an inexpensive old motel, passing numerous more modern establishments along the way.
Date: November 20, 2010, 17h33
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Route 66 Motel, Barstow, California
It rained here in Barstow just before I arrived and more cold rain was forecast for the overnight hours. Upon checking in, I was given a bottle of drinking water because the city's water supply has been contaminated.
Date: November 21, 2010, 00h08
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My cabin room at the Route 66 Motel is small and a bit run-down, but the round bed adds unique character
I like the worn-in feel of this place, despite the leaky sink and layers of visible plaster repairs. I hope the rain does stop by early morning as forecast... I rarely watch TV, so I do that here tonight, to see how the other half lives.
Date: November 20, 2010, 20h22
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Several old cars and other antique Route 66 paraphenalia decorate the grounds of Barstow's Route 66 Motel
The rain seems to have stopped. Now I'm waiting for the sun to come out before I pack up and start this bicycle trip.
Date: November 21, 2010, 09h12
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Another old car in the courtyard of Barstow's Route 66 Motel
In the background at centre-right is a sign for the motel next door. There are many motels along this strip of Route 66 in Barstow.
Date: November 21, 2010, 09h15
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Among the many antiques on the Route 66 Motel property is this cigarette machine
I remember these, but there's already a whole generation of people who haven't ever seen one of these vending machines operational.
Date: November 21, 2010, 09h22
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Barstow's downtown area has many older, modest dwellings built along desert hillsides
These older areas are picturesque compared to the bland suburban tract housing that surrounds them, and which dominate most of this small city.
Date: November 21, 2010, 10h12
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A 24-hour donut shop on Barstow's Route 66 is closed due to the water contamination
You can't make donuts or coffee without potable drinking water.
Date: November 21, 2010, 10h13
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El Rancho Barstow is one of many older motels along Route 66 in central Barstow
Unfortunately, a sign here offers "move-in specials," so I passed it up.
Date: November 21, 2010, 10h19
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I grab some breakfast at Barstow's Village Café, which is probably cooking with the bad city water, since they're still open
I like the old cash register in this Chinese-American establishment. I've only been out of San José for a day and I already miss Asian food, since it's what I eat most.
Date: November 21, 2010, 10h31
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Bummer, no Chinese breakfast on the menu (who would order such "weird stuff"?), so I order scrambled eggs and bacon
The otherwise unremarkable breakfast gets a kick when the waiter asks me if I like it "really hot" (I asked for hot sauce, expecting Tobasco). His "really hot" sauce is Chinese chili paste: nice, tasty. Thanks!
Date: November 21, 2010, 10h38
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The rain stopped, the sun shining, I leave Route 66 Motel and detour a mile up Barstow Rd to the Mojave River Museum
Wow, this short ride up the hill, only a mile with 200 feet of elevation gain, is killing me! How will I make it the rest of the way to Ludlow today, 50 miles away?
Date: November 21, 2010, 11h31
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I stop in at Barstow's Mojave River Museum for a quick visit before riding on toward Ludlow
I spend about 15 minutes here, but could easily spend longer. I grab a book on old desert water sources to amuse me, and head on, hoping to return for a longer visit later.
Date: November 21, 2010, 11h35
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Outside the Mojave River Museum in Barstow is an old exterior cage-style jail cell
One of these old jail cells is also on display outside Kelso Depot in Mojave National Preserve.
Date: November 21, 2010, 11h35
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